The Wingrove Workshop
  Return to Home page../Home_Page_/Home_Page.html../Home_Page_/Home_Page.htmlshapeimage_2_link_0
The Current Project
click here for CURRENT PROJECT photos../Falls_of_Clyde/Gallery-22.html../Falls_of_Clyde/Gallery-25.htmlshapeimage_4_link_0


Before the painting is started, each of the parts are provided

with a handle so that they can be manipulated under the

airbrush, this I use for all of the model painting, and also to

locate the part in a suitable place to dry.  For this I use two

planks of wood with a couple of thin strips of wood between,

to leave a gap of about half an inch.  This I clamp to the top

of the extended table of my wood working machine, as it is

never used when painting is in progress.  In use as the parts

are spray painted, they are placed handle first in the groove

between the planks until dry. The two planks are long enough

to take all of the parts for one or more cars when disassembled

for painting.

As can be seen the handles to the parts are numerous, from lengths of dowel for the wheel and anything with a suitable hole in it, to wire frames, and surgical forceps, also short lengths of wood, with double sided tape can be used for parts with a flat, that are only required to be painted on one side.  Those with tapped holes can be bolted to wire frames, note that the front and rear axles are threaded into a short tube of brass, which then is held in the business end of a large set of forceps.  I have  a number of these of different shapes and size, having found them at various venues, the tool sections at model engineering exhibitions and flea markets among others.

The paint process consists of a self etch primer, followed by grey primer.  This is then sanded down and may be repeated several times to eliminate imperfections in the surface, when these are corrected, the colour coat is applied.  Several colour coats will be applied and lightly rubbed down between each with finer and finer abrasives, the final coat being about 50% thinners, for a wet finish. After being left for a day or two to dry hard, this will then be very lightly rubbed down and polished to a high gloss.  I prefer to apply the glass finish, rather than rely on the paint gloss finish, which I feel looks artificial, but then this is my personal preference. 

The paint that I have always used is cellulose, not widely available these days, having got a bad name from some nuts going off their simple minds from sniffing it.  It never seemed to appear to the powers that be, that these people must have had a simple mind to start with, or they would not be sniffing paint.  However a whole new range of paints soon appeared on the market to replace cellulose, so perhaps, that is where the answer lies - ban one paint and introduce another and you have a ready market.

I have been inhaling cellulose for 60 years, on a regular basis, in very large doses - spraying over 300 car models to date - and have never used a mask while spraying - bad practice I am told and not to be recommended but so far at 83, I show no ills effects - I think - so is cellulose as bad as it is made out to be, or was it all a marketing trick on the unwary public????

The big advantage of cellulose over these new paints is that each layer of cellulose will blend into the previous one - it will melt the surface of the underlying one - so that you can polish though several layers, with out showing rings.  With other paints that dry hard between layers, particularly those with an added catalyst, if you inadvertently polish though a layer, the area will show the edge of that layer,

The exhaust system being made from brass called for a heated well used effect.  To obtain this the parts are first tinned, for which I use a soft solder paint.  Heat the part, then apply the watered down solder, until sufficient is in place to cover the item.  While still hot and in a molten state, wipe off the surplus solder with a cloth, to get a nice silver finish.  I then drop this into a weak solution of water and sulphuric acid, until the item turns to the required colour.  The said bath is the same one that I use to remove the flux from silver soldered joints, so will also contain some desolved copper, and I think it may be the combination of the copper and the acid that turns the soft solder to a burnt metal finish.  When using acid take all the necessary precautions and keep away from children .


For those looking for more information on the construction of the Falls of Clyde, I am running a ‘Log’ on the building of it on the ‘Model Ship World’ web site.

Check out < > and search for ‘Falls of Clyde’

Most of the photos will  be the same as here, but there will I hope be more insight into the actual working of the materials and building of the model.

Four photos are added at the start of each month and relevant text on the building.  It should be running for a considerable time to come, and hopefully will not repeat what I have here too much.